Annual Ed Gravelle Winter Solstice Race the Sun (Barkleys for mortals?)
This story is brought to you by three of the event's participants.
Some history
In 2012, Ed Gravelle started challenging himself by running the entire time the sun was up on the shortest day of the year. The original course was a double on the Mohawk Hudson marathon course starting in Schenectady. If he finished before the sunset, he would do loops around the duck pond til the sun set.
He then added a new challenge with the Taconic Crest Trail. The difficulty and distance are ideal for such a challenge. It is not easy to run 35 miles with 10k elevation gain in 9 hours, but it is doable. He has attempted it 3 times once with me, once with another friend, and once alone. He has never beat the sun!
Bill and Ed in 2021:
https://www.strava.com/activities/6413094652/overview
The next year (2022) there was 2-3 feet of snow on the TCT, so Ed and Bill created the Clifton Park to Saratoga trails run. This challenge started at the Vischer Ferry dam and tried to use as many trails as possible to reach downtown Saratoga by sunset. Ed and Bill beat the sun and the strava post is here (clearly the challenge was too easy):
https://www.strava.com/activities/8276203293/overview
In 2023, the TCT was runable again with very little snow, and there were four runners, no one beat the sun, and one runner was out there for 12 hours. He even witnessed the propane truck hitting the bridge explosion of 2023 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0ka5BPd3cc). Here is Bill’s strava from that year:
https://www.strava.com/activities/10416998265/overview
TCT Winter Solstice 2024
In 2024 Stravaless J assembled a group of 11 runners! The rules were simple: finish the TCT in the daylight hours. If you get to the end early, you have to do hill repeats on the TCT until the sun sets. Josh and Bill did a recon run the Sunday before and things were looking good. There was minimal hard packed snow. We had 11 strong runners. We were set to make history with the most finishers ever!
Mother Nature had different plans
Things were looking great, with a dusting to an inch of snow in the forecast and cold enough temps to keep the surface hard packed. There was more snow than expected. This caused more than a few problems. First, it made it difficult to follow the trail. Second, it made for slower running, Third it made for cold feet.. Right off the bat, we had three DNS runners. However, we had a strong group of eight.
Bill started the race off with Caballo Blanco’s oath made famous by Born to Run: “If I get lost, hurt or die…it’s my own damn fault.”
The optimistic starting team
The fellowship broke up early
After about three miles of staying together the group broke up into two separate groups. Matthias led the lead pack on a beat the sun pace. Dani and Anna took a more conservative approach falling back and enjoying the trail.
Aid station one
At the first aid station, Stravaless J, Matt, Bill, Matthias, Ian and Derek all met. Derek, and trail breaker Matthias decided to call it a day as the next chance to bail would be 17 more miles at mile 29. Stravless Josh took over as trail breaker with Bill and Matt in tow. Ian went back to check on Dani and Anna. The next 17 miles were much harder than the first 13 with more snow dropping temperatures slowing the pace.
Making our way
Aid station crew
Aid station two
Ian caught up with Stravalless J, Matt and Bill to report that Dani and Anna were doing well on their own. If anyone could have beat the sun it would have been Ian as he was able to add extra miles and still catch the rest of us. Ian and Stravaless J pulled ahead from Matt and Bill.
Meanwhile Dani and Anna had decided that they had had enough of the TCT and bailed off the course around mile 24. They knocked on the first house with lights on and found the kindness of strangers with a hot fire and warm drinks. They called for evac and Matt M. who was planning on running in from mile 29 and providing aid from his car, was able to go pick them up. Derek took over that aid station.
Sunset
As the sunset on the 21st, there wer four runners at petersburg pass (mile 29), and two runners sheltering in place somewhere off the course in a stranger’s house. The sun had won kicked our asses. When I mentioned this to Ed he thought that it was a bad omen for us mortals to ever finish this thing, and that it was becoming more like Barkleys… Maybe next year!
Done and done
Stravaless Josh’s account Race the Sun - December 21, 2024
The plan:
Run the Taconic Crest Trail (TCT) on the winter solstice within the daylight hours. Start running at sunrise, 7:20 am, and finish by Sunset, 4:10 pm. Simple right. Approximately 36 miles of snowy rugged terrain, with around 8,500 feet of elevation gain, and only two road crossings for resupply stops.
The preparation:
Ed Gravelle came up with the idea many years ago, and Bill Hoffman has tried to tackle it for the past few years. Ed couldn’t join this year, and Bill asked me. I then asked a bunch of other people, and they asked their friends. Eventually 11 people agreed to do it.
We set up two aid stations with Keri and Matt M. at the two road crossings. Keri would be at both, and Matt M. would be at aid station 2. Our aid stations were going to be at Madden Road and Petersburg Pass, which occur at miles 12-ish and 29-ish. I supplied a bunch of real food snacks, some sugary/savory treats, and gatorade. Derek and Keri also brought some really great supplies.
Bill and I also scouted the Petersburg Pass section of the TCT the weekend before our run. The trail was snowy, but well packed down. With microspikes on the running was perfect.
We scouted the weather too. During the week it was supposed to warm up a little, with no precipitation. Then, at the end of the week, the temperatures were supposed to drop. We thought this would allow the snow to pack down even further, to create a nice even and flowing path. By the end of the week the forecast had changed slightly to predict a dusting of snow overnight, with temperatures starting around 20 degrees and dropping throughout the day. With just a dusting of snow forecast, we decided to go for it.
The execution:
The sun tried to rise at 7:20 AM, but it was still snowing so not much of a sunrise. Despite the “dusting” forecast, it had snowed a bit overnight and it didn’t look like it was going to stop. Eight of us gathered, three had to bail at the last minute, at the southern terminus off of Route 20 in Hancock, Massachusetts. It was Bill, Danni, Matt, Derek, Anna, Ian, Matthias, and myself. Just before we started Bill channeled an oath from the book Born to Run and then led us out onto the trail. Even though the beginning is pretty steep, Bill charged uphill at a swift pace. He was determined to beat the sun!
Getting onto the trail it was clear that it snowed more than we had expected. The snow covered forest was absolutely beautiful and the continuing light snow in the air was magical. Although the temperatures were cold we expected that, and knew it was forecast to get colder throughout the day. The snow didn’t seem to phase Bill though, and he kept up his quick pace for quite a while. Driving through the snow, leaping around snow covered blow down, and hopping over the small streams with their snow covered rocks. You get the idea - lots of snow!
With the initial climb being difficult and Bill setting a quick pace, it wasn’t long before people started to spread out. The lineup was initially Bill and Matthias, followed by a rotation of Ian, Matt, Derek and myself. Danni and Anna agreed early on to set their own pace, cruising together through the beautiful forests. After a few miles Matthias took over as the lead runner, with Bill, Matt, Derek and I staying pretty close. Danni and Anna seem to be falling further behind, so Ian fell back to run with them.
Matthias was leading the way now, breaking trail like a champ. He set a pace that would lead to our beating the sun, but was it sustainable? In the conditions, it seemed aggressive and felt fast. It took a lot of effort. Bill was staying right with Matthias, and after that first sustained climb it seemed like the trail was nonstop up and down. Never flat. There was simply no way to just settle into a rhythm. We were either powering up an incline or flying down a hill, no in between. And even though the inclines were tough, we had some great downhill stretches too. Especially the downhill into the road section of Hancock. Matthias, Bill, Derek, Matt, and I all took the last downhill pretty fast. I loved it!
We all got off the trail in Hancock and onto the road at about the same time. Matthias, smartly, took his spikes off. Matt did too. I left mine on as did Bill, but he took his off after a little while too. It was about a mile of road running, and the spikes made me go slower. I got to the aid station on Madden Road soon after the rest.
The aid station at mile 12-ish was heavenly. Keri was an angel who even brought hot apple cider! I ate some food and refilled my bottles. We didn’t stay too long, and soon Ian arrived too. He told us that Danni and Anna were all good, moving at their own pace and enjoying the day. Ian started his resupply and was going to continue with Danni and Anna. Bill needed to keep moving, so Matt and I followed him out. Matthias and Derek decided they had enough.
Leaving our Madden Road aid station was tough. It is by far the longest uphill grind, and to make matters more difficult the snow felt deeper. It may have been because Matthias was no longer breaking trail, and that fell to me. I hiked with purpose up and away from Madden Road with Bill and Matt right behind. We had now split into three person groups: Bill, Matt and myself, and Ian with Danni and Anna.
I led and broke trail for a very long time. The snow continued to get deeper and the snowfall was heavy at some points too. It made navigating the trail pretty tough at times, which made me really concentrate on finding each TCT marker. My mind was hyper focused on the navigation, and it left no room for thought about discomfort. It was a great distraction from my feet, which were starting to hurt by about mile 17. The breaking trail and snowy conditions covered my feet with snow, which melted and then froze. My toes were basically in ice for the last 10 miles of the run, and they hurt.
I kept plugging away at navigating and breaking trail. The uphill through deepening snow was super tough, and the downhills so easy. Then, the few times the trail actually flattered out it became difficult to follow. We got off trail twice, but these setbacks were short. I was keeping a close eye out for the markers and as soon as I couldn’t see one for a minute we turned back. Thankfully, we were able to correct course quickly. The times we got off trail were short and caused by the path being covered by low hanging snow branches or the markers being completely covered in snow.
I felt like I was moving well, but nowhere near the pace Matthias had set. As we were grinding up the mountains for the second half of this middle section it became clear that the sun was going to win. But, I was still loving it even if my toes were frozen. At about mile 22-ish Ian met back up with Bill, Matt and myself. It was good to have him join us again. He gave us word that Danni and Anna were all good and following their own pace, which was wonderful news. He was looking very strong, while Bill, Matt, and I had been struggling with the effort and conditions. I continued to break trail for a while, but with Ian‘s new energy in the mix the effort was somehow easier. The snow wasn’t getting any less though. It was deeper underfoot, and at times heavier coming down. Conditions were definitely getting tougher with dropping temperatures and some snow squalls. The snow accumulation was never too severe, but it was consistent.
After a few miles of my breaking trail, Ian took over. He was still moving very well and I was thankful. He appeared to be fresh and picked up the pace from what I was setting. He and I fell into a good rhythm, chatting, grinding the uphills and flying down the downhills. After a mile or so of Ian breaking trail our group of four spread out. I stuck with Ian, with Bill and Matt grinding it out a little bit behind. Ian and I moved well through some tough conditions, some significant snowfall, and some sections of deeper snow too.
I was feeling good when we got to a junction about 5 miles from the second aid station. I had been on this section just last weekend, so I knew the topography and had a general sense of the conditions. But, wow, the conditions were so different from the week before. The hard packed snow was covered by many inches of fresh new snow and the hard ice underneath was softer too. It was tremendously more difficult to run.
Going up Berlin mountain I was feeling relieved. I knew the trail, and the idea of hitting a few good down hills was invigorating. Then, right at the top we met up with Dan and Allana. Awesome! They had hiked out, with their dogs, to see the runners. Ollie gave me a super happy greeting and seeing them was a huge boost! They were all doing good. Ian and I ran on!
Hitting the downhill was awesome. My toes were in some significant pain but flowing downhill was wonderful. On one of the down hills I tripped and went tumbling down the trail head first. With the super soft snow though, it was like landing in a pillow. It didn’t hurt a bit, and I popped right back up and continued to flow down the mountain.
Right at the top of the final descent before the second aid station, we met up with Derek who had run out to see us come in. He cheered us on and gave us great encouragement. That last downhill into Petersburg Pass is really steep, and we flew down it. We took off all the brakes and just staying upright was a challenge. It was incredibly fun. Then, once we hit the short flat section, there was Matt M. He had run out to meet us too, and ran with us back to the cars.
Before we got to the second aid station I hadn’t decided if I would push on to to the end or not. Once we got there though I decided pretty quickly, I had to stop. Physically I felt good. We maintained a manageable effort all day, and I had taken in plenty of calories and liquids. I could have continued, except, my right foot was in bad shape. It felt frozen. I knew I needed to get my shoes and socks off and into something dry and warm, which I did. I was dissapointed to end there, but getting my shoes off was a huge relief.
Finish time: 8:17. Finish distance: 29 miles. The sun won!
Once Ian and I thawed out a little, our focus shifted quickly to the four who remained on the trail. Bill and Matt were not too far behind, and they got back to the second aid station in good time. As for Danni and Anna, they took a side trail off of the TCT to Oblong Road. Danni was very familiar with the area, so decided that instead of going over Berlin Mountain they went to a road to get picked up by one of the folks at the second aid station. Matt M. picked them up from a nice family’s home who welcomed them in and seved them hot tea.
Wow! An adventure for the ages. Everyone made it out safe and the sun beat us all. I’m definitely going to try this again, it was a great adventure but next time better footwear.
Host cider and we are done…
Anna
Optimism. That would be the best word for how I started the day. Invited on a winter challenge to ‘beat the sun on the shortest day of the year’. What a treat! Coming off a recent move to the Hudson Valley and a summer full of some of my best trail running yet, including the infamous Manitou’s Revenge and Escarpment races, I drove up to meet some newfound friends for this epic adventure. It had been attempted many times before and not finished, but a text thread confirmed conditions were good, the weather forecast was in our favor, and ‘we had a good chance this year’.
The drive was less than ideal—white knuckling in the dark in heavy snow on suboptimal roads (a premonition?)—but I made it just in time and we jumped onto the trail. My optimism was restored as we moved quickly and easily over the first few climbs chattering introductions to new faces and taking inventory of the plans for the day. Quickly Dani and I realized the pace was a bit fast for our tired legs and decided to drop back. I couldn’t think of a better companion for the day and that proved true for the entire run.
I was enchanted. The snow fell all morning, draping the trees and ground with white. As a native Marylander where we consider flurries a ‘white Christmas’ I still feel that snow is pure magic. Despite the accumulation, it wasn’t heavy and I felt strong, happy to be playing in the woods on Solstice. We made it to the first aid station feeling fresh but a little cold, probably in part from the long descent off of the ridge. So grateful for a couple of friends that waited, hot cider, warm water to melt our hydration, we started again. A big climb back up to the ridge and heavier snow (which was supposed to stop by 8AM??) slowed us down a bit. But we were still having fun and feeling good.
It’s hard to know at what point that changed. Between wet feet, thicker snow, yet another hill to climb, and probably one not enough layers, optimism started to wane. We made peace with not finishing the entire trail and planned to stop at the next aid station. After a few more climbs, more snow, and the sun settling lower in the sky, cold hands and tired legs changed our mind again, it would be best to finish this sooner than later. Approaching mile 24, signs outlined our choices: 5+ miles over Berlin Mountain to the next aid, or two miles down to Oblong Road. In that moment we chose safety, recognizing that with our fatigue and the conditions, if something went wrong it would get very bad quickly, and that wasn’t worth it. To my intense gratitude, a family at the base of the trail let us in to warm up while we waited for a ride back to the cars. Any sadness I felt at not finishing was wiped away when I learned that all of the others had also dropped out, the conditions were too bad. If anything, I was sad not to get to see everyone at the end and say thank yous and goodbyes.
It was a day for the memory books, and one I hope to participate in again. I’m continuously amazed by what our bodies will do for us if we work hard and ask nicely, and the community that supports our crazy ideas and efforts. Thanks, Bill for giving us an adventure to talk about. I’m optimistic we’ll beat the sun soon!